The Legend of St Martin and the Fritters on11 November marks one of the most eagerly awaited celebrations in Italian tradition. This anniversary combines spirituality and gastronomy through one of its best-loved expressions: St Martin’s fritters. The festivity represents a significant moment in the Italian calendar, where history, faith and culinary tradition intertwine to create a unique cultural heritage.
The legend of St Martin, the saint who shared his cloak with a beggar, is accompanied by numerous popular customs that persist to this day. From traditional local fairs to the opening of new wine, from the preparation of fritters filled with olives and mozzarella to community celebrations, this celebration keeps a centuries-old cultural heritage alive. Each region retains its own variants of this festival, with particular relevance in agricultural areas where it historically marked the renewal of farmers’ contracts.
The origin of St Martin’s Summer
The most famous episode in the life of Martin occurred during a cold winter night in Amiens. Encountering a half-naked beggar, Martin cut his military cloak in two to share it with the poor man. The following night, according to tradition, Christ appeared to him in a dream, clad in half of his cloak. This gesture of charity gave rise to the meteorological phenomenon known as ‘St Martin’s Summer’, a period of unusually mild temperatures occurring in the days around 11 November.
Significance in popular culture
The figure of St Martin has profoundly influenced European culture. He became bishop of Tours in 371 and his cult spread rapidly after his death on 8 November 397. His popularity is testified by numerous traditions: almost 4,000 parishes in France bear his name, while the term ‘chapel’ derives from St Martin’s cape, preserved as a relic by the Merovingian kings. His feast day, celebrated on 11 November, has become a significant moment in the agricultural and religious calendar, traditionally marking the period of racking and the renewal of agricultural contracts.
The Tradition of Fritters in Molfetta
The streets of Molfetta are filled with inviting aromas every 11 November, when the tradition of St Martin’s fritters comes alive in every home. This custom, deeply rooted in Apulian culture, represents a moment of family unity and community celebration.
Origin of the tradition
The tradition of frittelle molfettesi stands out for its uniqueness in the Italian gastronomic panorama. These delicious fried panzerotti have become the symbol of St Martin’s Day in Molfetta, coinciding with the period of olive pressing and the arrival of thenew oil. The choice to prepare the fritters at this time of year is not random, but is linked to the availability offreshly producedextra virgin oil, which gives the dish a special flavour.
Preparation of fritters
The preparation of frittelle is a ritual that begins in the early hours of the morning. The dough, which differs from the classic Apulian calzone, involves:
| Basic Ingredients | Quantity |
|---|---|
| 00 flour | 1 kg |
| Boiled potatoes | 200 g |
| Brewer’s yeast | 1 cube |
| Warm water | 250 ml |
The process requires special care in the kneading of the dough, which must be soft but not mushy, and in the rising process, which is essential for soft and tasty pancakes.
Variety of fillings
Molfettese tradition is expressed through a rich variety of fillings, each with its own distinctive flavour:
- Classics: turnip tops and mozzarella, ricotta and mortadella
- Traditional: onions, tuna and tomatoes
- Innovative: four cheeses, savoury ricotta(shquend)
The preparation becomes a moment of sharing where families come together, handing down techniques and secrets from generation to generation. Each family develops its own method of sealing the pancakes, creating distinctive marks through wheels, strings or the use of a fork to seal the edges.
The Cultural Significance of St Martin’s Day
The feast of St Martin represents a crucial moment in the Italian agricultural calendar, traditionally marking the transition period between autumn and winter. This celebration has deep roots in Italian rural culture, where centuries-old traditions and popular customs are intertwined.
Renewal of agricultural contracts
The date of 11 November has historically marked the ‘peasant new year’, a decisive moment for the renewal of agricultural contracts. At this time, farming families would move from farm to farm with their household goods, giving rise to the expression ‘fare San Martino’, which in several regions has become synonymous with moving. These moves took place strategically after the completion of work in the fields but before the arrival of the harsh winter.
Opening of the new wine
The most anticipated moment of the celebrations is the opening of the vino novello. This tradition is expressed through different aspects:
- The tasting of the first wine of the season, produced through carbonic maceration
- The accompaniment with typical autumn products such as chestnuts and local produce
- The community celebration with toasts and festivities
Novello wine, characterised by fruity and fresh notes, must contain at least 40% carbonic maceration wine and is a unique product on the Italian wine scene, as it can be made from as many as 60 different grape varieties.
Conclusion
The feast of St Martin represents a cultural treasure that spans the centuries, keeping the memory of the holy bishop of Tours alive through gastronomic traditions and community celebrations. Pancakes, which have become the symbol of this feast, encapsulate culinary wisdom passed down from generation to generation, while traditional fairs and markets continue to bring local communities together, preserving the social essence of the festivity.
The modern celebration of St Martin’s Day shows how ancient customs can adapt to the present without losing their deep meaning. Families keep this tradition alive by preparing the fritters according to ancestral recipes, and to ensure the highest quality of the end result, visit our where you can find some ingredients for preparation such as evo oil. This festival continues to represent a precious moment of sharing and renewal, testifying to the ability of Italian traditions to evolve while keeping their cultural value intact.
FAQs
- What are the customs associated with St Martin’s Day? St Martin’s Day, celebrated on 11 November, is an occasion when elements of the Christian liturgy are combined with agricultural traditions, such as the opening of barrels of new wine and the celebration with traditional foods.
- Who was St Martin and what is his story? St Martin of Tours died on 8 November 397 in Candes-Saint-Martin, where he had gone to settle disagreements among the local clergy. His death, which took place in fame of sanctity thanks to his numerous miracles, initiated his cult, which celebrates his generosity, ascetic renunciation and missionary commitment.
- What is the significance of the legend of St Martin? The legend of St Martin emphasises the importance of altruism and mercy. The tradition of St Martin’s summer, characterised by an unusual weather phenomenon in early November, originated from this narrative.
- What is prepared and eaten during the feast of St Martin? During St Martin’s Day, particularly in northern Italy, wine, roast chestnuts, and pork and goose dishes are consumed. Also typical are sweets such as Venetian zaleti, cornmeal biscuits decorated with icing or chocolate, distributed to children in memory of St Martin’s quest.
