Caciocavallo Pugliese is one of the oldest cheeses in Italy, with a history dating back more than 2500 years. We Apulians know it not only as a cheese, but as a true symbol of our cheese-making tradition. Caciocavallo pugliese, with its characteristic pear shape and the maturing process ‘straddling’ a beam (hence its name), represents a gastronomic heritage that continues to fascinate and delight. In this article, we explore together the thousand-year-old origins, the traditional production process and the unique characteristics that make this cheese an icon of Italian food culture.

The Millenary Origins of Caciocavallo Pugliese

In the south-eastern hills of the Murgia, we find the roots of one of the most emblematic cheeses of our dairy tradition. Together we retrace the millennial history of Apulian caciocavallo, a journey that takes us back in time to ancient Magna Graecia.

From the period of Magna Graecia to today

The first evidence of caciocavallo dates back to 500 B.C., when Hippocrates, the famous Greek doctor, first described the techniques for making ‘cacio’ in his writings on the culinary art. The tradition continued through the centuries, with significant evidence during Roman times, where we find mention of it in the works of Pliny and in the Epistolae of Cassiodorus, who describes it as a constant presence on the table of King Theodoric.

The influence of different cultures

Over the centuries, different civilisations have contributed to the evolution of Apulian caciocavallo:

  • The Greek influence, with the first processing techniques
  • The Roman tradition, which spread its consumption
  • The legacy of the Balkans, with their Kashkaval
  • The period of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, which consolidated its production

The legends of its birth

There are numerous legends surrounding the origin of the name and birth of caciocavallo. One of the most fascinating tells of a shepherd who, in order to protect his cheese from the rain, hung it from the top of a tree, accidentally discovering a new ripening method. Another story suggests that the name comes from a horse-shaped fiscal mould used in the Kingdom of Naples to brand cheese.

The most credible theory, however, takes us back to the traditional ripening practice: the cheeses were tied in pairs and placed ‘astride’ a wooden beam, a technique that still characterises the production of our Apulian caciocavallo today.

The Traditional Production Process

In the heart of our Apulian farms, we jealously guard the art of caciocavallo production, a process that requires patience, experience and profound knowledge handed down through generations.

Traditional processing techniques

Our manufacturing process follows precise and methodical rituals. We heat the raw milk to 36-38°C in copper boilers, adding the natural rennet and whey starter from the previous processing, called ‘cizza’ in our dialect. The main processing steps are:

  • Milk coagulation (30 minutes)
  • Breaking of the curd into small fragments
  • Maturation of the paste (4-5 hours)
  • Spinning in boiling water
  • Shaping by hand into the characteristic pear shape

The maturing process

Maturing represents the most delicate moment of production. After soaking in brine for about 36 hours, we hang our caciocavallo cheeses in pairs on wooden beams in a cool, ventilated room. Maturation can last from 6 to 24 months, during which time the cheese develops that golden rind and intense flavour that sets it apart. The temperature of the maturing rooms varies between 13 and 28°C, while the humidity is constantly monitored to ensure optimal maturation.

Characteristics and Variety

In our Apulian tradition, caciocavallo is distinguished by its unique characteristics that make it immediately recognisable to the expert palate.

Organoleptic properties

Our Apulian caciocavallo cheese has a thin, smooth rind with a characteristic straw-yellow colour that can intensify as it matures. The paste, which has a slight eye, exudes a slight fat that contributes to its melting texture. On the nose, we perceive a balance of vegetable and animal sensations, with intense aromas of milk and cooked butter, complemented by savoury notes. The flavour is savoury and slightly spicy, with a persistence that tells us the story of our land.

Regional variants

Our creativity has led us to develop various specialities that enrich the tradition:

  • Caciocavallo al Peperoncino: Our innovation of 15 years ago, now a must
  • Caciocavalloal Primitivo: A unique combination of wine and cheese, with the primitivo added directly during processing
  • Caciocavallo Podolico del Gargano: Matured in natural caves, it represents the excellence of our production

The variety of the herbaceous flora of the Murgia, with its graminaceous, mallow and leguminous plants, gives our cheese unique organoleptic characteristics. The use of kid rennet instead of lamb rennet gives an even sharper signature to the taste and smell after careful and meticulous maturing.

The nutritional value and benefits

Let’s analyse together the nutritional profile of our caciocavallo pugliese, a food that contains a treasure trove of essential nutrients for our daily well-being.

Nutritional composition

Our caciocavallo is distinguished by its exceptional nutritional profile. For every 100 grams of product, we offer:

NutrientQuantity
Energy value 439 kcal
Protein 37,70 g
Fats 31,10 g
Carbohydrates 2,30 g
Calcium 860 mg
Phosphorus 590 mg
Vitamin A 420 µg
Riboflavin (B2) 0.45 mg

Functional properties

Our focus on the quality of Podolian milk is reflected in the cheese’s functional properties. The smaller fat globules, characteristic of our caciocavallo, facilitate digestion and nutrient assimilation. The marginal presence of lactose also makes our product suitable for those with a moderate sensitivity to this sugar.

The fat composition in our caciocavallo deserves special attention:

  • Predominance of short- and medium-chain fatty acids
  • Lower concentration of harmful fatty acids
  • Significant presence of beneficial polyunsaturated fats

Health benefits

Our Apulian caciocavallo offers numerous health benefits, supported by its rich nutritional composition. Its high calcium and phosphorus content (86% and 84% of the daily requirement respectively) makes it particularly valuable for:

  • Bone health during growth
  • Support in cases of osteoporosis
  • Maintaining muscle mass due to its high protein content

The presence of vitamin A and riboflavin contributes to the general well-being of the body, while the naturally present milk enzymes promote the balance of intestinal flora. Our cheese fits perfectly into the Mediterranean diet as healthy food, contributing to the overall well-being of those who consume it.

Conclusion

Caciocavallo pugliese represents much more than just a cheese in our tradition. Its thousand-year history, handed down through generations of Apulian cheesemakers, tells the story of the evolution of our cheesemaking art and the dedication to quality that characterises our region.

Our meticulous attention to the production process, from the selection of Podolica milk to the patient maturing process, guarantees a product with unique organoleptic characteristics. The different varieties we produce, from mild to extra-mature, offer a taste experience that satisfies every palate, while the rich nutritional profile confirms the role of caciocavallo as a valuable health food.

This iconic cheese continues to be a symbol of our gastronomic identity, a treasure we jealously guard in our farms and proudly bring to tables around the world. Its history, which began in the ancient lands of Magna Graecia, continues today through the expert hands of our master cheesemakers, preserving a legacy that tells of Apulia and its people.

FAQs

Where does caciocavallo come from?
Caciocavallo is a traditional cheese from southern Italy, particularly popular in Campania. It is known for its unique double cusp shape, resembling a ‘horse’, which originally facilitated transportation on horseback by shepherds by tying it with a rope.

How many varieties of caciocavallo exist?
There are different varieties of caciocavallo, originating in the areas that once belonged to the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Among the best known are Agnone caciocavallo, Castelfranco caciocavallo, silano caciocavallo, Sicilian caciocavallo and podolico caciocavallo.

What is the cost of Pugliese caciocavallo per kilogram?
The price of Apulian caciocavallo varies according to its maturation, which can last from 2 to 5 months, and is around 17 euros per kilogram, VAT included. Masseria Fragnite takes care of both the production and packaging of the cheese, thus ensuring quality during shipping.

What are the benefits of eating caciocavallo?
Caciocavallo is rich in calcium and phosphorous, making it an excellent food choice for those who are growing or at risk of osteoporosis. These minerals are essential for maintaining healthy bones.